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Guerlain Cologne L'Homme Ideal Eau de Toilette Spray For Him, 100 ml

£9.9£99Clearance
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Ideal Extreme-At times, Extreme has been my favorite. But, less so this time around testing out these fragrances. Though, it may again claim the top spot. This one gets me a ton of leather versus the others. Cologne has been discontinued, supposedly replaced by Cool which is more aquatic. I think they should have done Cologne as a separate non-Ideal release and not mentioned the word cologne at all. Usually flankers tweak the original (Terre D'Hermes upping the citrus or vetiver) but this one replaces a core note to the point where it is much less recognisable as part of the range. It reminds me of when Wasser made Habit Rouge L'Eau which smells almost nothing like the original but could have been good as a standalone release under a different name. I suppose it just fell in a gap where it wasn't quite enough like Ideal or its own thing. Green is hope: as the colour of spring, as the colour of renewal in Christianity, as the colour of the prophet in Islam, as the signal colour on traffic lights, as the colour of an aspiring party. But I think even more of a novel by TC Boyle that turns the green of germinating marijuana plants and then withering again into the satirical, ironically turned descent of a hippie community. Anyway: Green also works well in advertising and so it seems to be almost a sign of the times that two particularly high-turnover brands (Davidoff and Guerlain) are launching a green men's fragrance on the market almost simultaneously.

Basically, I am sceptical about all the fragrances in the L'Homme Ideal range. EdT as well as EdP and Intense were much too almond sweet for me. Gourmands are actually a horror to me, even though I have to admit that Guerlain did not succeed badly in this case. I find the sport variant completely accidental and leave it out of consideration for further considerations The overall sweetness never strays into the ‘girly perfume’ territory as it sits atop the leather, vetiver, and cedar notes. This gives L’Homme Ideal an excellent platform to start from. The Guerlain perfume house was a family business until 1994, when it was acquired by Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy (LVMH). In 2002, the family legacy of Guerlain ended with Jean-Paul Guerlain's retirement, though he continues to work for the house as a consultant. Thierry Wasser was named the official in-house perfumer of Guerlain in 2008. I mostly love fragrances that have a stable, rich, high-dose base. But it is not always easy as a perfumer to create an intense base without losing the top and heart notes or neglecting the desired effect thanks to a present base. Of course, it always depends on whether and which part of the fragrance pyramid the perfumers (have to) set as a focus. I'm a fan of the classic Guerlains - Habit Rouge, Heritage, and Eau de Guerlain are top 3 for me. I've been trying to find something since Thierry Wasser became the current nose, Homme is good but didn't fit me, L'Instant (Not Wasser but still modern) I couldn't get on with the cacao. I kept thinking to myself... where's my modern Guerlain?The Guerlain house was founded by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain in 1828. Starting with common hygiene products, Guerlain was also creating perfumes for his customers, and over time he developed the business into a highly successful company that became an official perfumer for several European royal courts.

The, unfortunately discontinued, Cologne version had convinced me more and more with the time. Not because it was a complex masterpiece or one of the most creative fragrances. But rather because of its encouraging, cheerful, lively and summery way. This was due to the grapefruit and almond notes. While these notes complemented each other and added more weight, the light musk note was also added (probably mainly as a fixative) to add more weight, inclusion and longevity overall. As a result, the grapefruit aromas could be perceived until the end. Guerlain L’Homme Ideal EDT Spray for Men, 1.6 Ounce – Ideal EDT seems pretty underrated here in the number 4 spot, because it is a very enjoyable fragrance to wear. Where does L'Homme Ideal Cool (what a terrible name...) stand now in comparison to the other versions of this meanwhile extensive series (I wouldn't speak of flankers at all in view of the different orientation)? Jean-Paul Guerlain is the grandson of Jacques Guerlain. He first assisted, and then created his first "solo" offering, the now-famous Vetiver (1959). His other well-known creations include Habit Rouge, Chamade, Eau de Guerlain and Nahema. The almond does not come alone, but accompanied by the "aquatic notes". Don't worry, because these notes are subtle and at least they don't wake up a shower gel feeling in me.The fragrance has of course retained the typical DNA of the original. What changes is the underground. A pleasant citric freshness accompanies the ideal DNA. Especially grapefruit and bergamot provide a noble and slightly bitter freshness. This freshness meets a beautiful sweet DNA that is not cheap. An almond note is very present from the beginning. What should also be mentioned is that this is a fragrance without a large gradient. The freshness is maintained for a very long time and the heart and base notes also start early. Towards the end it becomes more aromatic with lots of musk. Otherwise the fragrance remains very similar from beginning to end. For me, the Cologne of the L'Homme Idéal series was, along with the EdT, the stepchild of the series for a long time. While the EdP in winter spreads opulence in a positive sense and the sports version is wrongly underestimated in my opinion and is quite unique with its combination of almonds and aquatics, the Cologne always made the impression of the nice boy from next door during various tests on test strips, about whom you can actually say nothing bad, but who comes across quite arbitrarily. The problem is that the base of the Cool is rather weak and transparent. No part of the base note gives the mint / almond weight. I wonder why musk was not used here either, to emphasize the almond and mint and keep it alive longer. It's almost like when an author hasn't thought up a good/logical ending. Fresh and has an almost frozen profile to it, that’s perfect for the warmer weather. Lighter sillage, but it could last for around 8 hours. If you can find a bottle, for a reasonable price, L’Homme Ideal Cologne is worthwhile. Ideal Cologne Review This is where it being called Cologne seems misleading. It's a medium weight scent, not a faint cologne. There's no fading citrus topnotes, instead this grapefruit hangs around for the whole duration and steadily tapers off through the drydown. You get the classic warm/cool contrast that often makes for great fragrance (Fahrenheit for example), and prevents it from becoming overly linear as you get varying mixes of the almond/grapefruit accord through the length of the wear into the vetiver/wood finale.

This top note remains surprisingly long for a cologne and is supplemented over time by the typical almond, which is on a low flame in comparison to EdT and EdP. It does not play the leading role, but harmoniously accompanies the character of the fragrance, accompanied by a hint of neroli. The whole thing is bedded on a base that, unlike EdT/EdP, is not difficult, but pleasant and slightly fluffy in the form of a light musk gives an interesting depth. Vetiver, as listed here, I don't smell any. Being a persistent guy I tried the flankers but always have been disappointed by that same dam cherry/wood accord being in all of them, I suppose as it should be, and I shouldn't have been surprised. But then it was Turin's review of Cologne in the more recent 2018 guide that caught my attention, he mentioned grapefruit and vetiver as the main accord and so recently I took a punt and got a 50ml FB blind, slightly worried that I'll be put off by the vetiver or it having that original accord. I get a smooth and creamy blend during the final stages, that is peppered with some rosemary herbal spice. Leather, tonka bean, and almond with a fresh base of cedar and cool vetiver. When L’Homme Ideal is performing well, it is a fantastic smelling cologne. All in all, a favorite of the series has emerged very surprisingly for me, which I smiled at until two weeks ago - but which I will wear gladly in the coming warm months, when I feel like summer refreshment without a cool lemon.In the search for my perfect mint fragrance I also came across this "cool" one, which should replace the ever-popular L'Homme Idéal Cologne from the L'Homme Ideal series. Why Guerlain has made this step, I can not really understand, because I like the Cologne very much, but obviously it was probably due to poor sales figures. This one was a great summertime option. The focus here is going to be on the citrus notes, such as: grapefruit, bergamot, and orange. The Ideal almond note, plays a lesser role with Cologne, especially early on. But, it will come around with a nice vetiver. In summary, Guerlain L’Homme Ideal EDP opens as a sweet syrupy cherry aroma, with accommodating almond and spices. It then dries down to a subdued version of the opening but with added leather, incense, and tonka bean. This fragrance leans masculine, but only slightly. One thing that I really enjoy about this gourmand fragrance, is the inclusion of the citrus notes. They are never overpowering or brought out as the main attraction in this cologne, but they do provide an energy, and a change of pace from the rest of the composition.

For me it is rather an evening/night fragrance for the summer instead of a cologne. Above all by the beautiful sweetness paired with the freshness. He is already very stylish and also a bit sensual. But it is also well wearable at milder temperatures, but not at all for the great heat. By this fresh stylish sweetness comparable to Chanel Allure Homme Sport Eau Extreme. Not from the DNA, but the scent type is similar. From my testing Guerlain L’Homme Ideal EDP performance is moderate. It sustains projection out from the skin for the first 2 hours. Then it lasts 7 hours more as an intimate scent bubble and skin scent. Releasing a heavy fragrance as a fresher summer variant has been in vogue for several years now. I have to say: I like heavy DNA's in a slightly fresher robe, like Spicebomb, La Nuit de L'Homme, Code, Dior Homme and some more. Converting such DNA's into summer scents isn't even that easy. However, I find such scents great for milder summer days and summer evenings/nights without the great heat.Extreme is actually pretty similar to the others, with the standard nutty almond note, but paired with fruity notes such as plum. Quite tart to me, rather than sweet, early on. Add to that, Ideal Extreme has spicy notes and a tobacco finish. Still dry fruity sweet, but not overly sugary or unbearable. The resemblance to the Cologne, which I consider to be extremely successful, mentioned here several times, leads a little astray, I think. The family resemblance is more apparent in the almond note, which, if you take the newer women's fragrances from Guerlain as a reference, seems to be something like the new Guerlinade. In the L'Homme Ideal series it was consistently transferred to the men's line. This has a certain internal logic and is therefore not even unsympathetic to me. Both in Cologne and in the new Cool, this almond note has been significantly reduced, is no longer as present as in EdT, EdP or Intense, and therefore no longer has a real gourmand character. There are parallels between the two fragrances (neroli, orange, bergamot) and the discreetly recognizable cologne-water components, which provide a subliminal freshness that you will not find in EdT, EdP and Intense. The clear difference between the two lighter fragrances of the series (Cologne and Cool), however, is the respective top note, which extends far into the heart note of the fragrance and blends there with the respective discreet almond note: mint and a (fortunately) distinctly restrained aquatic in Cool, grapefruit in Cologne. One could say that there is now a L'Homme Ideal for almost every taste. For the lovers* of food leftovers in fragrances, the EdT, EdP and Intense (of varying intensity), for the lovers* of bright, cologne-like variants Cologne and Cool. It would be a shame, however, if Cologne were to be permanently removed from the programme in favour of Cool. For me, Cologne is still clearly the best and perhaps only outstanding variant.

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