Highly respected 3rd Party batteries like Watson and Patona, quote capacities that are very similar to the OEM battery’s capacity. My own experience, and that of many others, is that the best 3rd Party batteries can deliver a capacity similar to the OEM batteries So, although capacity need not be a deal breaker issue for the OEM vs 3rd Party decision, it is not the only performance specification that needs to be considered. mm × 92.8 mm × 58.8 mm (35.4 mm excluding projections, measured at thinnest part)/5.22 in. × 3.65 in. × 2.31 in. (1.39 in.)

As used by the Fuji X-T2, X-Pro2, X-T10, X-E2S, X-A2, HS50EXR, HS33EXR and HS30EXR digital camera models. This product information is fully applicable to the Fujifilm series compatible batteries, "Fujifilm battery NP-W126S". Essentially, the W126 and S version are interchangeable in all bodies. The S versions run cooler, and consequently are preferable overall. Especially so if you plan to shoot video for several minutes at a time.I haven’t done any rigorous testing in this area, so far I’ve just tried to put all the brands to a fridge for few days, but haven’t measured any significant loss of charge. Even when not used for a long period, none of my batteries suffered any significant discharge. Battery aging

The FX1 charger will report the correct temperature of a thermistor equipped battery, but it does not terminate charging if the battery goes outside the 0°C to 45°C allowable charging temperature range. The user needs to stop the charging process if they notice that the temperature display is approaching the 45°C charge temperature limit."We have already reported about Dom Varney’s articles “ Powering the Fujifilm X-T3” and “ Fujifilm NP-W126S Battery Counterfeits – A Visual Guide to Spotting the Fakes“. The battery indicators in cameras are based on actual voltage of the battery. However, since the Fuji batteries have quite a different voltage curve, compared to all the aftermarket batteries, the remaining capacity shown by the camera isn’t accurate for non-Fuji batteries. This is mostly apparent on almost empty batteries — while the camera shows that the battery is still OK, it can actually be almost empty.

Apparently the cheapest aftermarket batteries fail pretty bad, but fortunately many brands offer pretty solid competitors to the original batteries. They often have almost the same capacities and also heat management under a heavy load seems to be alright. Movies: Standard output sensitivity equivalent to ISO 160 – 12800 in increments of 1/3 EV; AUTO; extended output sensitivity equivalent to ISO 25600 I don't think you will see any difference in the X-Pro2 because it was not designed to be take advantage of the features of the NP-W126s. For all versions of Fuji X ILCs except for the X-T2, the NP-W126 or the NP-W126s is the correct battery to use. For the X-T2, the NP-W126 will work if you don't use 4K video. Japan, China : 2,412 MHz–2,472 MHz (13 channels) * Other countries : 2,412 MHz–2,462 MHz (11 channels)

Product Specification

I also used my thermal camera, Flir One for Android ( iOS version exists too), to capture batteries after a heavy load. While the original battery shows mostly evenly distributed heat on its surface, the noname battery has much higher temperature in a smaller rectangle in the middle. This might be the reason for swelling of some batteries. Self-discharging Auto, Custom 1, Custom 2, Custom 3, color temperature selection, direct sunlight, shade, daylight fluorescent, warm white fluorescent, cool white fluorescent, incandescent, underwater Still pictures: Exif 2.3 JPEG (compressed); RAW (original RAF format, uncompressed or compressed using a lossless algorithm; special purpose software required); RAW+JPEG available