Yonico 14705 1/2-Inch Height with 6 Bearings Rabbet Router Bit & Bearing Set 1/2-Inch Shank

Product Information

As the bit is also non-guided e.g. it does not feature a bearing it can also be used to great effect for hollowing out objects. The worst base for this sort of work is actually the standard fixed base, which has a very small footprint and only takes Makita's own guide bush (which is 9.5 or 10mm from memory, AFAIK no other sizes available). It isn't difficult to make a larger (more stable) sub base from acrylic plastic (Perspex, Lucite, etc) or polycarbonate (Lexan, etc), in any shape you like, such as an egg shape with an offset handle. A better base for your purposes is the plunge base, which can be set up to allow repeatable depth cuts. It is more stable, too, because it has a bigger footprint than the fixed base, and has the advantage of being able to take Porter-Cable guide bushes when used with a commonly available adaptor. That gives you the ability to do template routing with a selection of guide bushes. The plunge base can also be used with the same micro adjustable side fence that is sold for the Makita RP1110 router (and is compatible with other fences from Bosch and DW)

The name edging bit or edge cutting bit is a bit of an umbrella term as there are several different types depending on eth shape of edge you want to create. Typically edging bits are available to cut the following shapes: On its own, the router is useless, but coupled with the correct bit you can create a masterpiece! To these ends here is a run down of the most popular router bits and different shapes or mouldings they cut. Straight Cut Router Bits However their main purpose is for creating decorative edges commonly used on tables, doors of various types, shelves and the similar.This project should be read in conjunction with our project on how to use a router found here. What are the Different Parts of a Router Bit? Contributing editor Steve Latta teaches cabinetmaking at Thaddeus Stevens College in Lancaster, Pa.

Synopsis: Decide what’s more important — the tongue or the shoulder — and you will know the best method to use for cutting a particular rabbet. Despite the simplicity of the joint, it’s not as cut and dried as it seems. Sometimes a tablesaw and dado blade is the best method; other times, you’ll want to turn to the router table. The final main element of a router bit is the bearing guide that normally features at the base or tip of a bit but can sometimes appear at the top.As they effectively cut a 45° bevel edge, they are also commonly used to ‘bevel” the edges of two adjoining surfaces to create a mitre joint so that they meet to form a right angle. Another example of a specialist router bit is the biscuit cutting router bit used to cut biscuit joints in the absence of biscuit jointer. More info can be found on biscuit cutting router bits in our project here. V-bits as with most other decorative cutting bits come in a range of different shapes and angles that can be used to form everything from a deep thin channel to a wide shallow one.

The purpose of the bearing is to allow you to easily guide your router bit along a piece of work so that your (normally) shaping or detailing work is kept straight and accurate. Due to this if the profiles are cut the same then essentially a rounded off joint will fit into a cove-cut joint. Flush trim bits are essentially straight bits with a pilot bearing that’s the same diameter as the flutes. The bearing at the tip guides the cutting arm perfectly around the edge of a surface, allowing you to trim overhanging material perfectly flush. You can use this for shelf edging, veneer trimming, or to smoothly join edges. They’re also great for duplicating curved patterns from a template. For trimming purposes, these bits can be used in a hand-held router, but a table-mounted router is best used when replicating patterns with a template.

Bearings give bits versatility

The depth of the cut is determined by the size of bearing fixed to the base of the bit and due to this, rabbet bits normally come with a selection of different sized bearings so that you can cut a range of different depth joints. Not only is it used for cutting channels it can also be used for creating decorative effects in wooden panels such as doors, table edges and other similar objects. There are several different parts that make up a router bit and understanding each of these and what they do is integral to they’re use. The main router bit parts to note are the shank, the body, the cutting edge and if it has one the bearing guide.

As with all other bits that produce accurate cuts, the rounding bit also includes a bearing guide at the base that is also used to control the depth of cut. Due to this rounding bits also normally include a range of different sized bearings that can be swapped out depending on the depth of cut required. One other very handy cut the straight cut bit can make is a plunge cut. This is when the bit is lowered down on to the surface and then starts to cut down in to it. Is it because a trim router and a 1/4" bit would just find that too hard, even if I did multiple passes? What I actually did as a test was to make multiple passes across the table saw blade at a height I thought was right for the extra 6mm or so... this didn't leave something as neat as I wanted and I needed to clean up with a chisel. Next time (this weekend) I'll probably try the 2 cuts on the table saw method. Again as with other router bits that need to cut accurately, these bits also feature a pilot bearing guide fixed to the base of the bit.But it’s just a rabbet!” my students sometimes complain. Why overthink it? After all, most folks follow the standard protocol: on the tablesaw with a dado head buried in a sacrificial fence. However, the first approach is not necessarily the best. While there’s no doubt the tablesaw works, there are factors that might encourage an alternative method. The key question is, what matters more: what’s removed, or what remains? Two ways to cut a rabbet The majority of router bits that feature a bearing normally also include bearings of different sizes with the bit or in the kit. As the bearing follows the object your are working on, the size of bearing dictates the depth of the cut, so for a different depth of cut you can simply change the bearing for a different size. They’re available in cut diameters ranging from 3/16-inch to 1½ inches and have either one or two ‘flutes’ (cutting arms) depending on how large or fine of a cut you need.